Bonito, MS travel guide
Bonito, in Mato Grosso do Sul, is the one destination in Brazil where you cannot improvise. Every attraction runs on a booking system with a daily cap, and the
The Abismo Anhumas is the strangest thing you can do in Bonito: the entrance is a crack in the ground and the only way to the lake below is to abseil down. It requires training the day before, has a small daily quota and resembles nothing else in the region.
The Abismo Anhumas is a vertical cave on a farm in the Bonito region. The opening in the ground is discreet and prepares nobody for what lies beneath: an enormous chamber full of limestone formations, with a clear lake at the bottom. There are no stairs, no ramp and no alternative route — anyone who wants to see it up close abseils down a rope, roughly 72 metres of controlled free descent.
That makes it one of the few attractions around Bonito where the access itself is the central experience. The descent takes several minutes and crosses three distinct environments: the open air at the mouth, the half-light of the middle section and the lit darkness of the chamber, where any sense of scale disappears.
This is the fact that wrecks the most badly planned itineraries in Bonito: to descend into the Anhumas you must complete abseil training, held on a separate occasion — normally the day before, on a tower at the operator base. There you learn to work the descender, practise your posture and are assessed.
That means the Anhumas occupies two slots in your diary, not one, and that you cannot decide in the morning to do it that afternoon. Anyone arriving in Bonito with two days who wants to include the abyss has to build the itinerary around it, not the other way round.
Once at the bottom, what you do on the lake depends on the option booked. The contemplative version crosses the chamber on a floating platform without entering the water. The snorkel version adds mask and snorkel to see the submerged formations from above. Scuba diving, restricted to certified divers, goes down among the cones.
| Option | In the water | Prior experience required |
|---|---|---|
| Contemplation | No | None beyond the abseil training |
| Snorkelling | Yes, at the surface | None beyond the abseil training |
| Scuba diving | Yes, submerged | Yes, diving certification |
The way back up, in all of them, is by a mechanical hoist operated by the guides — you do not climb.
Being underground, the Anhumas is little affected by rain on the day. What rain does affect is access to the farm and, in extreme cases, visibility in the lake. Season matters more for availability: because the daily quota is low, high season sells out weeks ahead.
No. The training exists precisely for people who have never done it. What you cannot do is skip the training.
No. The ascent is done by a mechanical hoist operated by the team, with you seated in the harness.
The chamber is vast and does not feel tight, but descending through a crack with no quick way out bothers people with that condition. It is worth talking to the operator beforehand, frankly.
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